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`Ono Kine
Cafe Concerto -- Harmonius flavors from the maestro
By Kristin Hashimoto
Wednesday, April 4, 2007 8:45 AM HST
Cafe Concerto's signage emblazoned like an Italian flag above the entry at 808 Kilauea Avenue is hard to miss and that's the point. It's there to loudly proclaim what awaits inside --delicious homestyle fare from the country that bears the same red, green and white standard.
Step past the wrought iron fence and through the doorway where tables covered in white rest on cobbled brick stones. It is early still, with the rush of the lunch crowd yet to appear. Seating is wide open and the day's specials are queued. In the corner: An espresso machine waits. In the air: Music and the faint scent of a peculiarly sweet tobacco hangs. The owner is perusing the paper and smoking outside.
A smiling man with a blue and tan striped apron, Lando Landi is the restaurant. Charming, flirtatious, sometimes reserved, sometimes ebullient, this owner is particular. He makes each and every dish himself with classic perfection but, please, don't call him a "chef."
"I am a maestro dicucinai," he instructs, "a master of the kitchen. The difference between this and a chef is about 530 years."
This, proud, native of Livorno, Italy is as entertaining as he is talented. As an adult education instructor in Hilo, he was regularly advised by his students to open a restaurant. Eventually he succumbed and Cafe Concerto was born.
By the maestro's hand, the flavors are fresh and easily discernible, playing well off each other. A tomato is a tomato. Mozzarella is pure and stark white, and the garlic, oh, the garlic is pungent and featured prominently; which is to say gloriously.
Here the menu is a simple list in clean black text on white paper, very much a lesson in the basics of Italian cuisine. Dishes are pared down to two salads, eight entrees and three dessert items. Specials are listed seperately. Espresso is always available.
Today the urge for summer spaghetti Caprese style with angel hair pasta, fresh basil and garlic takes precedence.
After this hearty meal, which includes Landi's homemade sourdough bread, comes the offer of what he calls a "digestive." To partake of this curious drink, and avail yourself of its metabolic properties, you must be over 21.
When asked about its contents, Landi demures, "My aunt's family's secret. Nobody knows." He smiles mischeiviously as its milky, sweet warmth settles in. It alone is worth the trip. Try it with the tirimisu, which is also homemade.
"Do you know what "tirimisu" means?" Landi asks when dessert arrives. "Cheer me up."
Cafe Concerto cheers guests Tuesday through Friday 10:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. and Friday and Saturday 5:30 p.m. to 9:00 p.m. Your best bet for a dinner seat is a reservation. Call 934-0312.
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There are 2 comment(s) comments on this story.
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What? wrote on Apr 16, 2007 11:18 AM: