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`Ono Kine
Cafe Concerto -- Harmonius flavors from the maestro
Wednesday, April 4, 2007 8:45 AM HST
Cafe Concerto's signage emblazoned like an Italian flag above the entry at 808 Kilauea Avenue is hard to miss and that's the point. It's there to loudly proclaim what awaits inside --delicious homestyle fare from the country that bears the same red, green and white standard.

Step past the wrought iron fence and through the doorway where tables covered in white rest on cobbled brick stones. It is early still, with the rush of the lunch crowd yet to appear. Seating is wide open and the day's specials are queued. In the corner: An espresso machine waits. In the air: Music and the faint scent of a peculiarly sweet tobacco hangs. The owner is perusing the paper and smoking outside.


A smiling man with a blue and tan striped apron, Lando Landi is the restaurant. Charming, flirtatious, sometimes reserved, sometimes ebullient, this owner is particular. He makes each and every dish himself with classic perfection but, please, don't call him a "chef."

"I am a maestro dicucinai," he instructs, "a master of the kitchen. The difference between this and a chef is about 530 years."

This, proud, native of Livorno, Italy is as entertaining as he is talented. As an adult education instructor in Hilo, he was regularly advised by his students to open a restaurant. Eventually he succumbed and Cafe Concerto was born.

By the maestro's hand, the flavors are fresh and easily discernible, playing well off each other. A tomato is a tomato. Mozzarella is pure and stark white, and the garlic, oh, the garlic is pungent and featured prominently; which is to say gloriously.

Here the menu is a simple list in clean black text on white paper, very much a lesson in the basics of Italian cuisine. Dishes are pared down to two salads, eight entrees and three dessert items. Specials are listed seperately. Espresso is always available.

Today the urge for summer spaghetti Caprese style with angel hair pasta, fresh basil and garlic takes precedence.

After this hearty meal, which includes Landi's homemade sourdough bread, comes the offer of what he calls a "digestive." To partake of this curious drink, and avail yourself of its metabolic properties, you must be over 21.

When asked about its contents, Landi demures, "My aunt's family's secret. Nobody knows." He smiles mischeiviously as its milky, sweet warmth settles in. It alone is worth the trip. Try it with the tirimisu, which is also homemade.

"Do you know what "tirimisu" means?" Landi asks when dessert arrives. "Cheer me up."

Cafe Concerto cheers guests Tuesday through Friday 10:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. and Friday and Saturday 5:30 p.m. to 9:00 p.m. Your best bet for a dinner seat is a reservation. Call 934-0312.
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There are 2 comment(s) comments on this story.

What? wrote on Apr 16, 2007 11:18 AM:

" Dude - does this have anything to do with THIS story, or are you just trying to write your own reviews using the Ono Kine page? "

Chris Drayer wrote on Apr 9, 2007 8:58 AM:

" Naniloa Disapointing. Ken Fujiyama and the Naniloa resort have made headlines recently, with the abrupt takeover and remodeling and the like, with a common theme of making a “world class resort” out of the local landmark as his lofty goal. I thought I would give Mr. Fukiyama an opportunity to please me at his resort, so I went to the Easter Brunch at the old “Poly” room at the Naniloa. I have eaten at Mr. Fukiyama’s other restaurants at the Volcano house and at Nani Mau Gardens, so I had an idea of what to expect and I can say, that after those experiences, my expectations were not too high. That was fortunate, because the food, atmosphere and overall experience failed to even meet my low expectations. When we walked into the “poly room”, how sad it was to see that it had been refurbished on the cheap, a coat of paint the biggest improvement that I could see, without any of the other elegant touches that I would expect, like wall coverings, carpet, art work or other sorts of decorations. The buffet was set up on tables with white table coverings without ant sort of decoration, indeed the only decoration on the food tables or the dinning tables was a flower arrangement on the dessert table. I felt I was walking down the service corridor at the Waokoloa hotels, instead of stepping into ma world class resort eatery. Even the windows, looking out into Hilo Bay, were dirty and looked as if they had not been recently cleaned. It was a sad beginning to what was to be a totally sub par experience. The most disappointing of all was the food that was served at this event. Starting with a romaine salad with brown edged and speckled lettuce, complemented with only a piece of tofu and an unripe slice of tomato. That was the entire salad bar. The rest of the buffet went downhill from there, with cold fried potato’s, overcooked shrimp, a dry baked fish and mystery goulash. The prime rib station cut plenty of beef, but most to medium and well done eaters, a truly rare piece of beef was no where to be found. French toast was found next to the bacon and sausage links. But all the toppings were away on another table past the omelet station. Fresh Fruit consisted of ONLY papaya slices and pineapple chunks, and there were fewer items on the dessert table than ingredients at the omelet station. The only high lights of the meal were snow crab claws and the potato mac salad, and only because the were The cost of the meal, at $34.99 per person, would lead one to believe that an elegant and tasteful banquet would be laid, but what we got for the money was a cheapo breakfast buffet. Ken Fujiyama is attempting a world class resort on a motel 6 budget. But then, we have seen this kind of half way efforts before from Mr. Fujiyama. Its clear that if you want to attract visitors and locals alike to your new digs Mr. Fujiyama, you need to learn to run a proper food service. And hey – it all starts with the food. Chris Drayer P.O. Box 1503 Hilo, HI 96721 808-969-3713 "

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Click Photo to Enlarge
Summer spaghetti Caprese style - Kristin Hashimoto

Click Photo to Enlarge
Lando Landi in the kitchen - Chris Madden
 


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